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After some contact cleaning...


Joe

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It may not be available for guest operators in August but it may make public trips so that the public gets the opportunity to ride. By September it should be a fully completed re-addition to the operating RT fleet and be available for guest operation as well.

 

May come out? I know I will take it out when I come up either Saturday or Sunday.

Oh, and did you guys move it out of the shop yet?

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I nominate INDman to hold the stinger when it makes it's voyage across the property.

 

Not a chance... I'll be in the cab operating. You can hold the stinger though or we can nominate one of the others...

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For those how are thinking of coming up to BERA on for RT weekend 8/7 and 8/8, I will try to bing out 1689 when I am up there on 8/7 for public operations only. The car as of now, will not be available for guest operators, but the Low-V and R17 will be running.

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I don't mind holding the stinger. What worries me the most is the operator moving the car towards me ~10 feet away.

 

Oh come on, it's not that bad. Jeff and I take it show when there are people on the ground.

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May come out? I know I will take it out when I come up either Saturday or Sunday.

Oh, and did you guys move it out of the shop yet?

 

All things being equal, I will bring it out on the Sunday.

 

It's still in the shop, it will be going out Friday. We'll do the rest of the work on the car (including painting and reattaching the shoe beams, as well as the remaining switch group work), in Barn 5.

 

I say "May" because like everything, it is always subject to change. You should know me well enough to know that I rarely if ever say that anything WILL happen.

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I don't mind holding the stinger. What worries me the most is the operator moving the car towards me ~10 feet away.

 

I can do it but there's a good chance it might be done by the time you go up again, depending on when you go. And hey you saw me moving the crane with two people on the ground in front of me to pull out the truck and I got it done, I'm also the one who puts the Lo-V away which is a tight move (must pull within <4 inches clearance). But if you want to take your chances with IND or Julio feel free, it's only your life... :)

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INDman was having some trouble getting the group to turn. We cleaned the group contacts and, well, a picture is worth a thousand words. For the record, 1689 was not towed out by 850 (or anything else for that matter).

 

4804458182_a62cae6724_b.jpg

 

Do excuse the lens flare, I wasn't exactly prepared for this.

 

Am I having flashbacks ? I knew that was some good stuff we had back in the "60's. Seriously guys, that's a great job you've done so far. Keep up the good work!

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I can do it but there's a good chance it might be done by the time you go up again, depending on when you go. And hey you saw me moving the crane with two people on the ground in front of me to pull out the truck and I got it done, I'm also the one who puts the Lo-V away which is a tight move (must pull within <4 inches clearance). But if you want to take your chances with IND or Julio feel free, it's only your life... :D

I'll get Joe one of these so he can feel safer on the ground :)

pickelhaube.jpg

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Oh? "The Prince" aka "King Richard" has decided to grace you with his presence??? I thought he hated subway cars... :)

 

I think you're thinking of the wrong guy. The following image should help:

 

horse-La-Comb-Shemal%5B1%5D.jpg

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This weekend's REPORT - As an update to this:

 

1689 had some additional contact cleaning done this weekend, and the off magnet valve in the switch group was disassembled, cleaned, lapped, and reinstalled on the car with a heavier duty gasket. The switch group speed was altered so now the group runs up properly in 4 seconds instead of just under 3.

 

The car was test run once more, and the problem of blowing air out of the switch group appears to have been corrected. The group is no longer hissing air when the controller is notched up. However, the group is still notching up incorrectly. The issue seems to relate to the second and third acceleration steps in both series and parallel. In series, this causes the car to accelerate quickly when the accelerating relay picks up, in parallel with double the current, it causes the substation to drop out as the car draws too much current at once.

 

We'll be looking into a problem with the accelerating relay in the meantime, it may be set incorrectly and the spring tension adjusted, and the spacing between the contacts may be slightly high.

 

The car runs fine in the first two points with a bit of a jolt after 1-2 seconds when placed in series when the group takes excessive current.

 

Also, the brake rigging needs some more slop taken up on the trailer truck. Brakes are still very grabby and "clang" on. But the car moves and there's no hissing of air from the group which is progress.

 

Some of the switch group covers were painted, and the shoe beams from the motor truck began being painted. Car's coming along with a few things to do to get it fully ready.

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That accelerating issue in series freaked me out the first time it happened. I'm glad to hear it's coming along though. I might be up there sometime this week, will have to check with JH.

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That accelerating issue in series freaked me out the first time it happened. I'm glad to hear it's coming along though. I might be up there sometime this week, will have to check with JH.

 

Yeah the car picks up speed quickly after about a second in series. The grabby brakes were also a bit of a concern. I took a quick 5 pound reduction on Sando going 5MPH trying to slow back down to 2-3, they clanked on, I released, and the brakes are slow to release so by the time they did so the car had come to a stop. Probably will take up more slack on the trailer truck next week and try it again. Have to get that big pipe wrench for the turnbuckle.

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Here's a report from Wednesdays PC15 adventures. All I have to say is: hmph.

 

The accelerating relay was removed from the car and tested with the welder and a meter to ensure it picked up at the correct amperage (170 amps IIRC). It was spot-on. Very little adjustment was required. Back it went on the car.

 

After using a clamp-on meter to measure the starting current of the motors in switching, it was found to be way too low. Too much resistance somewhere. Could be the resistor grid that was put together a year ago or it could be somewhere else in the circuit.

 

Our discovery of too low starting current confirmed wacky readings that we were finding earlier in the day. We spent just about the whole working day under the car with electrical test equipment. Sitting on gravel isn't any fun.

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Here's a report from Wednesdays PC15 adventures. All I have to say is: hmph.

 

The accelerating relay was removed from the car and tested with the welder and a meter to ensure it picked up at the correct amperage (170 amps IIRC). It was spot-on. Very little adjustment was required. Back it went on the car.

 

After using a clamp-on meter to measure the starting current of the motors in switching, it was found to be way too low. Too much resistance somewhere. Could be the resistor grid that was put together a year ago or it could be somewhere else in the circuit.

 

Our discovery of too low starting current confirmed wacky readings that we were finding earlier in the day. We spent just about the whole working day under the car with electrical test equipment. Sitting on gravel isn't any fun.

 

Hmm not good. Will look at it on Sunday as well as continue paint work. As for the last part did you bring knee pads? haha

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Hmm not good. Will look at it on Sunday as well as continue paint work. As for the last part did you bring knee pads? haha

 

Oh yeah, I painted the inside of one high voltage cover and the other side of the shoe beams. The other high voltage cover doesn't need paint, you'll see why.

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Oh yeah, I painted the inside of one high voltage cover and the other side of the shoe beams. The other high voltage cover doesn't need paint, you'll see why.

 

Did you do both sides of the one cover or just the glyptal? I might as well do the outsides of the covers too, they were getting rusty and down the line (ie many years from now) I don't want holes to appear.

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I only got around to the one insulated side. the outsides of the covers weren't too bad, some surface rust, one thing you might want to work on is the spring latch that holds the two sides together. Those two covers, despite their size, were also not that hard to remove, surprisingly. Sad to say, but it was hardly the most productive day we've had.

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