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R160

New Subway Models...Need some help

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Hello all,

 

So I've been saving money for about 5 years now since I got my first MTH O-scale locomotive (6-8-6 Pennsylvania 6200 Loco and Tender).

 

I recently purchased a R-16 4 car set and a R-1 4 car set with the 2-car add-on. 

 

subway5.jpg

 

 

And since I can't find a good photo of the R-1, I'll use one of Zack's:

 

DSCN6971-1.jpg

 

 

 

My question pertains to how these trains can run on my current tracks. The locomotive I have no longer runs on the tracks. Both the train and tracks are old, but I think it's the train that is the problem. I was wondering if I would need to update the transformer I have. Would it be possible to run both trains on the same set of track?

 

 

What I currently have is:

 

mIOLo40-atk0Sv_ax77FKaw.jpg

 

 

 

Basically, I was wondering if these trains could run with this equipment. Thanks! 

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I remember taking that picture lol. How many Watts is that transformer-Remote your using?  The R-1 needs a minimum of a Z-750 to a Z-1000 to operate. A Z-500 will not work. What kind of tracks are you using? Now remember, the R-1, is a "Premier" Subway Set so this will require a minimum of an O-42/45 Curve.  The Lionel Subway is just as a big as the R-1, however, Lionel Subways can utilize O-36s to turn on, even O-27, but i would NOT recommend it. It looks terrible and that cars are wayy too big to be using such a tight turn. Definitely upgrade the curves if that's also your issue. I love the Atlas Track, as you see it in the photo above. Detailed and strong.

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I guess I might as well ask, dying out of curiosity. How much does it cost to build such model systems? I thought about installing a train simulator (I mean the software) , but these models are looking great! I only wish I can fit one in my apartment. But yeah what is the average cost? 

 

I think the last time I had a Lionel kit was when I was a kid but I have no idea how much it costs because I received it as a Christmas present.

Edited by realizm

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I remember taking that picture lol. How many Watts is that transformer-Remote your using?  The R-1 needs a minimum of a Z-750 to a Z-1000 to operate. A Z-500 will not work. What kind of tracks are you using? Now remember, the R-1, is a "Premier" Subway Set so this will require a minimum of an O-42/45 Curve.  The Lionel Subway is just as a big as the R-1, however, Lionel Subways can utilize O-36s to turn on, even O-27, but i would NOT recommend it. It looks terrible and that cars are wayy too big to be using such a tight turn. Definitely upgrade the curves if that's also your issue. I love the Atlas Track, as you see it in the photo above. Detailed and strong.

 

I'm actually not sure. The transformer is at home and I'm at college  <_< ... it's either Z-500 or Z-750 according to the product manual I found online. As for tracks, I probably need to buy new ones, but I have RealTrax. I either have O-36 or O-42 curves, but I'll have to check that when I go home. 

 

I'm assuming that same requirements for curves apply to switches as well, correct? 

 

Also, what happens if the train runs on a tight curve? Will it just run off the tracks? 

 

 

I guess I might as well ask, dying out of curiosity. How much does it cost to build such model systems? I thought about installing a train simulator (I mean the software) , but these models are looking great! I only wish I can fit one in my apartment. But yeah what is the average cost? 

 

I think the last time I had a Lionel kit was when I was a kid but I have no idea how much it costs because I received it as a Christmas present.

 

REALLY expensive. I've been waiting what seems like a million years to be able to afford these and now I'll probably need even more $ to upgrade my transformer and tracks.

 

The R-16 Lionel set (4 cars) was $710 before tax and shipping/handling. The R-1 (4 car set with 2 card add-on) was $800 before tax and shipping/handling. The R-1 was especially expensive because it's rather rare and in mint condition (untouched, still in the box). 

Edited by R160

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I'm actually not sure. The transformer is at home and I'm at college  <_< ... it's either Z-500 or Z-750 according to the product manual I found online. As for tracks, I probably need to buy new ones, but I have RealTrax. I either have O-36 or O-42 curves, but I'll have to check that when I go home. 

 

I'm assuming that same requirements for curves apply to switches as well, correct? 

 

Also, what happens if the train runs on a tight curve? Will it just run off the tracks? 

 

 

 

REALLY expensive. I've been waiting what seems like a million years to be able to afford these and now I'll probably need even more $ to upgrade my transformer and tracks.

 

The R-16 Lionel set (4 cars) was $710 before tax and shipping/handling. The R-1 (4 car set with 2 card add-on) was $800 before tax and shipping/handling. The R-1 was especially expensive because it's rather rare and in mint condition (untouched, still in the box). 

 

Woah....

 

 

I'm blown away... holy cow....

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Yeah...The most powerful transformer (I think) is about $400-$500 or something crazy like that. Plus the tracks. Mine are at least 5 years old and rusted so I can easily spend over $150 to replicate the layout I have now. 

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Does anyone know if it's true that I need a lighted lock on to run my trains? If so...where does it go? I don't have a straight track that has space for it like that.  :wacko:

 

517MnS0rjyL.jpg

 

Apparently I can just take that part out of the track to put the lockon in. Should I upgrade my controller to the DCS Remote Commander Set ? I will have 2 Proto 2.0 subway sets so I don't need Proto 3 I guess.

 

So many questions....

Edited by R160

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Yeah...The most powerful transformer (I think) is about $400-$500 or something crazy like that. Plus the tracks. Mine are at least 5 years old and rusted so I can easily spend over $150 to replicate the layout I have now. 

Yeah, the MTH Z-4000 (MTHs biggest transformer) is $400.00+

 

Does anyone know if it's true that I need a lighted lock on to run my trains? If so...where does it go? I don't have a straight track that has space for it like that.  :wacko:

 

517MnS0rjyL.jpg

 

Apparently I can just take that part out of the track to put the lockon in. Should I upgrade my controller to the DCS Remote Commander Set ? I will have 2 Proto 2.0 subway sets so I don't need Proto 3 I guess.

 

So many questions....

Are you using MTH realtrax, Lionel Fastrack, Atlas O, MTH Scaltrax, Lionel Tubular, Lionel O-27? YOu should have a lock-on, however if you dont, you can just solder wires to the rails itself, and have the wires go directy back into your transformer. On my 2 Lower Level  MTH Realtrax loops, Im using the lock-ons, but on my 4 elevated Subway Lines, my 1 track Trolley Line, and my outer Freight/Commuter loop which im running Atlas O, i don't use the Atlas O -Lock-on straight section of track they offer. I use the soldered wired-fishplate connections. 1 red wire, and 1 blue wire are soldered to 1 gold (outside rail fishplate) and 1 black (inner rail fishplate), and those connections are used when putting your tracks together. So it eliminates the need for the "lock-on" section of track, and goes straight to the source.

 

Upgrading to DCS is minimum another $400.00. I just got it in August 2011 and it is a blast. Proto 2 and proto 3 arent that different. Its just an upgrade to the announcements or a stronger software.

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I use MTH realtrax. As of now I only have a circle of track so I assume I only need one lock-on. 

 

I assume this is what I need: http://www.amazon.com/MTH-50-1001-DCS-Remote-Control/dp/B0042M7X48/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1366993506&sr=8-3&keywords=MTH+dcs+system

 

Will I also need the starter set? 

http://www.amazon.com/M-T-H-Electric-Trains-Remote-Commander/dp/B003JL9706/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1366993643&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=MTH+dcs+system

Edited by R160

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You dont need the DCS just yet. The remote system looks fine, but, yes you still need the lock-on with the yellow/red banana cords, that link up to that black box, and the remote senses the box while operating the train. Thats basically, your "brick" for the transformer.

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Bumping an old thread, but I have another question. 

 

Since MTH doesn't have have a crossover switch track I'm using 2 O-42 RH switches and 2 O-42 LH switches. However for some reason, my trains seem to lose power when crossing over the switch tracks unless I run the transformer (Z-1000) to full power. Even at full power, they slow down, but manage to get through.

 

WHat do I need to prevent my trains from doing this? It only really happens on the switches. I read somewhere that I should have lighted lock-ons on the outside of the track on the track next to the switch, but I don't see what this would accomplish.

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Bumping an old thread, but I have another question. 

 

Since MTH doesn't have have a crossover switch track I'm using 2 O-42 RH switches and 2 O-42 LH switches. However for some reason, my trains seem to lose power when crossing over the switch tracks unless I run the transformer (Z-1000) to full power. Even at full power, they slow down, but manage to get through.

 

WHat do I need to prevent my trains from doing this? It only really happens on the switches. I read somewhere that I should have lighted lock-ons on the outside of the track on the track next to the switch, but I don't see what this would accomplish.

1) Make sure your track is clean. Th middle rail usually comes with a thick coat of a black rubber substance painted onto the rail. Get yourself some "Denatured Alcohol" and a soft towel, and spill some of the alcohol onto the towel and clean the tracks.

 

2) The extra lock-ons would benefit you, to see if power is going through the switches. If worse comes to worse, splice up some wire from right before the 1st switch. Solder  it to that middle rail section, then slide the wire underneath the roadbed via the pre-drilled holes in the tracks, and then bring it back up at the other end, and re-solder it. The extra wiring does help. I do this with my ATLAS O Track switches on my EL.

 

I hope this helps..

 

Zach

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Hi Zach, I appreciate the help. At this point I might as well pay you to come to my house and fix everything! :P  Here's a photo of the current layout.

 

ScreenShot2013-05-30at53041PM.png

 

The green section powers up fine. However, the orange section does not. I've had a train on the orange track with the transformer on full power and nothing happens. The only way to get power to the orange track is to put another train on the blue section of the track. 

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Hi Zach, I appreciate the help. At this point I might as well pay you to come to my house and fix everything! :P  Here's a photo of the current layout.

 

ScreenShot2013-05-30at53041PM.png

 

The green section powers up fine. However, the orange section does not. I've had a train on the orange track with the transformer on full power and nothing happens. The only way to get power to the orange track is to put another train on the blue section of the track. 

 

That orange track is considered a separate line/loop. You need another lock-on on the orange track, hooked up to a 2nd transformer.

 

Ill come over and re-do it for you !

 

lol

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I could also replace my Z-1000 with a Z-4000 which can power both tracks, right? Ugh. I really don't want to spend the money though.

 

Do you think I'd need any other transformers after those two?

 

eq4dqg.jpg

 

Orange/Green = local tracks

Purple = express tracks

Black = Yard

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A  Z-4000 will run 2 tracks with no issue at all. All you have to do is get another transformer. A Z-750 or Z-1000 is good too, if you dont want to spend the $400 on the Z-4000. Both of your loops, need to be individually powered/ You cant use 1 transformer with 1-lock-on for 2 tracks my  friend. Especially for PS2.0/3.0 Subways.. That's a non-no :lol:

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