R188 7857 Posted July 10, 2014 Share #1 Posted July 10, 2014 Went out yesterday to try and experiment with my camera, since I'm still pretty confused w/ it although I've had it for a decent amount of time. Some conclusions- Motion Blur: A major focus yesterday. Discovered that motion blur is more likely to happen in the dark (tunnels) than in daylight, and if any photographer can perhaps help me with this (big newb right here), it would be appreciated. But from what I can see, I think bumping my ISO up to 400 would make it better? I don't know. Brightness: Brightness is something I wanted to test. I wanted to see if my pictures were over-exposed or perfect. I'm going to let you guys tell me, since well I'm a noob at photography and hope to get much better. Focus: I tried to get the camera to focus on the train, but it didn't work out. I decided to change my settings to focus on the thing in the middle, and I've yet to test it. The camera would focus on the columns, not the train....... Anyways, heres' the shots! R188 7888 with unusually large numbers..... and also the seats are starting to get dirty they've been running it a lot. This one didn't focus on the train: That column focus though.... Even more motion blur..... I've been trying to get this shot for SUCH A LONG TIME... and it came out messed up. That construction paper number though... Leave your feedback below! Because I will need it! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Union Tpke Posted July 10, 2014 Share #2 Posted July 10, 2014 I am not an expert but they look great to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CenSin Posted July 10, 2014 Share #3 Posted July 10, 2014 Remember that under any kind of lighting, to capture a moving train, you must have extremely fast shutter speed. Your skill with focusing will determine what aperture setting you require to keep the train in focus. f/1.4 will be very sharp for the object of focus and blurry for everything else while f/22 will make everything sharp (like a camera phone's photo). If you can maintain good focus on the train without too much difficulty, you should lower the aperture, because high apertures require higher ISO to maintain a good exposure. I'll usually maintain a shutter speed of 1/250 for moving trains, but I'll fix the shutter speed to 1/8000 if I'm photographing from a moving vehicle. f/5.6 is a good aperture for me and my camera since I have very fast focus speeds. And depending on the lighting, I'll adjust the ISO anywhere from 100 to 6400. Your camera should have a dial with P, A, S, and M on it. I put it on M to let me manually tune all 3 settings, but S is good if you need to fix the shutter speed while letting the camera automatically decide the aperture and ISO for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R188 7857 Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share #4 Posted July 10, 2014 Remember that under any kind of lighting, to capture a moving train, you must have extremely fast shutter speed. Your skill with focusing will determine what aperture setting you require to keep the train in focus. f/1.4 will be very sharp for the object of focus and blurry for everything else while f/22 will make everything sharp (like a camera phone's photo). If you can maintain good focus on the train without too much difficulty, you should lower the aperture, because high apertures require higher ISO to maintain a good exposure. I'll usually maintain a shutter speed of 1/250 for moving trains, but I'll fix the shutter speed to 1/8000 if I'm photographing from a moving vehicle. f/5.6 is a good aperture for me and my camera since I have very fast focus speeds. And depending on the lighting, I'll adjust the ISO anywhere from 100 to 6400. Your camera should have a dial with P, A, S, and M on it. I put it on M to let me manually tune all 3 settings, but S is good if you need to fix the shutter speed while letting the camera automatically decide the aperture and ISO for you. My camera has A,S, and M and the P is seperate, I currently use P but maybe I should make an adjustment. Adjusting the ISO For decent lighting sometimes makes it look grainy/noisy though, so too high of an ISO would cause problems wouldn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CenSin Posted July 10, 2014 Share #5 Posted July 10, 2014 Adjusting the ISO For decent lighting sometimes makes it look grainy/noisy though, so too high of an ISO would cause problems wouldn't it? That's why I limit my ISO to 1600 usually. I'll lower the aperture before I raise the ISO further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYtransit Posted July 11, 2014 Share #6 Posted July 11, 2014 Motion Blur: A major focus yesterday. Discovered that motion blur is more likely to happen in the dark (tunnels) than in daylight, and if any photographer can perhaps help me with this (big newb right here), it would be appreciated. But from what I can see, I think bumping my ISO up to 400 would make it better? I don't know. Brightness: Brightness is something I wanted to test. I wanted to see if my pictures were over-exposed or perfect. I'm going to let you guys tell me, since well I'm a noob at photography and hope to get much better. Focus: I tried to get the camera to focus on the train, but it didn't work out. I decided to change my settings to focus on the thing in the middle, and I've yet to test it. The camera would focus on the columns, not the train....... Anyways, heres' the shots! R188 7888 with unusually large numbers..... and also the seats are starting to get dirty they've been running it a lot. ------------------------------------- Motion Blur: Occurs usually when shutter speed is 1/30th of a second, if you have a steady hand. 1/125th is a good shutter speed to use to capture a train, But you have to pan along with it so it doesn't become to "Blurry". When there is less light available, The camera will expose the sensor to light for a little longer, the longer its exposed the more prone it is hand shake blurryness. Some cameras have Image stabilizer to counter this, But as for moving objects, You must pan with it to get it in focus. Im not sure which camera you have but here is the best recommended maximum ISO ranges to use before the picture gets too grainy. Point and shot cameras, Typical sensor size 1/2.3"-1/2.5" Maximum ISO range = 640 Higher grade point and shoot (Canon G11,G10,G12 etc. Nikon P7000) Maximum ISO range = 800 1" Sensor cameras (Sony Rx 100 I,II,III) Maximum ISO range = ~1200 4/3" DSLR camera (These cameras are usually mirrorless Maximum Iso range = 2000 APS-C DSLR cameras, Maximum ISO range = 3200 Full Frame Cameras, Maximum ISO range = 6400-8000 (This highly depends on the camera model) Brightness is basically many factors, Aperture, Iso and Shutter speed. its usually called EV, Evaluated metering. I know for my Canon DSLR, I leave it an -1 When im outside because I like to get the clouds into my shots. This you should experiment with, It doesn't matter about what we think, It should be what you Like! But just dont under expose or over expose a picture Focusing is different on every camera, if were talking on technical terms...Dslrs focus through a Mirror, Mirrorless/Point and shoot cameras focus through contrast,light received from object, etc. Basically to explain in short, Focus points are generally the strongest in the center, and cameras will always tend to focus on the closes object, Hence why on one of your picture the camera was out of focus of the train, it probably caught focus on the ground . To counter this, I do selective auto focusing. Those columns you were talking about are AF points. I generally only pick 3 boxs depending on situation. If I wanna get my train in focus on the right side, I pick the furthest right box. If the face of the train is on the left, I pick the furthest Left box. If im gonna be doing a wide angle shot, or a shot where the train/object is in the center, then I would choose the center box, Which I pick 60% of the time because its the most accurate and the fastest. Some cameras will focus faster then others in the dark, but again it all depends on the Model. Hope this helps good luck doing your pictures! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R188 7857 Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share #7 Posted July 11, 2014 My camera's aperture options are: F3.2 F3.6 F4.2 F4.6 F5.2 F5.8 F6.6 F7.3 - Which one should I chose? and for shutter speed, I'm thinking from 1/125s 1/180s and 1/250s. Which is the best? for ISO, I would use ISO 200,400,800. After 800 it goes to 1600, and btw my camera is pretty cheap, a SamsungWB250F. Again, I'm completely new to this stuff and I have no clue.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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