Joe Posted October 6, 2009 Share #151 Posted October 6, 2009 well i keep the aperture at f/2.8 around and shutter speed at 1/13 , 1/15 or 1/10 and ISO at 200, so my pics come out well.. With no noise.. I dunno if all cameras are the same, my last cam i had ISO at 100 and it was working well too For Subway btw! Oh boy. Assuming the aperture and shutter speed are constant (we'll say 1/15 @ f/2.8); doubling the ISO (ISO 200 -> 400) would yield a brighter picture. By doubling the ISO, twice as much light is being collected. Full ISO stops are 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800, 25600. One stop is equivalent to a doubling of light. ISO 100 -> 200 = 1 stop/double the light; ISO 200 -> 800 = 2 stops/quadruple the light. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share #152 Posted October 6, 2009 I have this kind of camera: http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=145&modelid=16347 I was wondering,which ISO and/Or settings should I use for underground subway pics? I always have my ISO on auto and my settings on Manual. Most of the time my underground pics come out blurry. and do you think I should leave those settings on for outdoor pics to? if its cloudy outside,my pics come out blurry. Any advice would help! You mentioned blurry pictures twice. You might have a camera shake problem. The camera is shaking/moving too much when its recording the image. Your camera is going to react slower in low light. Be patient. Try holding the camera more still first and see how that goes. If your pictures are more sharp then work on the ISO and everything else after. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cait Sith Posted October 6, 2009 Share #153 Posted October 6, 2009 From my understanding, you need a significantly low ISO and low shutter speed, crank up the exposure and get good results, I usually use 80-100 ISO with a low shutter speed for clear results. But you have to stand as still as possible. This might not be a subway picture, but its similar to the settings I use in the subway now. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metsfan Posted October 12, 2009 Share #154 Posted October 12, 2009 So, optics. Coated, uncoated, fixed zoom, ultra zoom, what does it all mean? Basically you need a good set of glass (optics) to get the light from out in the world, to the image capture mechanism, be it film or some sort of solid state sensor. Coated optics have a coating to ensure good transmission, reduce reflection, and protect the surface from dust etc. Some coatings are hydro-phobic, meaning they repel moisture, keeping condensation from ruining your shot. Some cameras have a fixed zoom, meaning you control only the aperture, focus, and exposure, some fixed zoom cameras are automatic, such asa Polaroid type camera, meaning you only have one button, the shutter release. some cameras have an ultra or long zoom capability, meaning you can see things far away, all most like a telescope, without adding a telephoto lens. Telephoto lenses are attachments for SLR cameras for the most part, however some non SLR cameras have conversion kits. Built-in zoom will depend a lot on your camera's size, for instance, don't expect a 3 8th inch thick camera to get 15x zoom, there really isn't enough space to store the optics when folded (closed). There are a very few exceptions to this rule, as folded optics, and stacked optics technology has advanced quite a bit in the last few years. An example: http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/product.asp?product=1449 10x zoom in a pretty compact form factor. SLR zoom will depend on many factors, including construction, purpose, and settings. Some lenses in some configurations are more limited than others, because of focal range and exposure, but in general clip-on/screw in lenses are far more flexible, and expensive (some in many instances may cost more than the camera body) than built in. It is a good idea to when looking for a camera with good zoom capability, put it second to image stabilization, weight, and price, unless zoom is your primary concern and you all ready know about the image quality to be expected etc. Next section will focus on batteries and power sources. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Y2Julio Posted October 12, 2009 Share #155 Posted October 12, 2009 SRL lenses aren't only telephoto Andy. You have prime lenses, wide angle lenses, fisheye lenses, tiltshift lenses and other specialty lenses. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metsfan Posted October 12, 2009 Share #156 Posted October 12, 2009 Oh i know, i was saying external lenses that attach are 99% of the time for SLR systems. Telephoto lenses attach to the camera body as with the other lens types in the SLR systems. All in one or point and shoot cameras rarely have the ability to attach things on as far as optics, though some models have a telephoto converter kit that you screw on, but is a converter not a separate whole lens package. For SLR: My camera's tele converter kit: - A 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Y2Julio Posted October 12, 2009 Share #157 Posted October 12, 2009 Prime SLR lenses aren't telephoto. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted October 12, 2009 Share #158 Posted October 12, 2009 Prime SLR lenses aren't telephoto. A telephoto lens could be a prime however. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metsfan Posted October 12, 2009 Share #159 Posted October 12, 2009 Yea, you still need the adapter section in most cases, but that big guy is $6k, not really a railfanning tool, more for other works, unless you're doing things with bridges like fred did with the hell gate. - A 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Y2Julio Posted October 12, 2009 Share #160 Posted October 12, 2009 Yea, you still need the adapter section in most cases, but that big guy is $6k, not really a railfanning tool, more for other works, unless you're doing things with bridges like fred did with the hell gate. - A Who says it can't be a railfanning tool? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metsfan Posted October 12, 2009 Share #161 Posted October 12, 2009 Who says it can't be a railfanning tool? Ok, i guess if you were on the ESB and wanted to fan in queens , or HBLR, it would be PERFECT! :cool: - A 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted October 12, 2009 Share #162 Posted October 12, 2009 That's the 300mm f/2.8 right? I thought it went for $7k...almost $2k more than the Nikon (which is a damn fine lens). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Y2Julio Posted October 12, 2009 Share #163 Posted October 12, 2009 Ok, i guess if you were on the ESB and wanted to fan in queens , or HBLR, it would be PERFECT! :cool: - A nope. Platform usage my friend! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metsfan Posted October 13, 2009 Share #164 Posted October 13, 2009 Well, you'd need a tripod, and at least 7 feet minimum between you & subject. That olympus tele' is the best out there for the 4/3 system. It's smaller than anything else with the same capability. - A 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted October 13, 2009 Share #165 Posted October 13, 2009 I wouldn't really consider its small size to be a huge benefit, especially seeing as 4/3rds is the smallest DSLR sensor. Smaller sensor generally means higher pixel density, decreased dynamic range & increased noise. Sensor size comparison. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Y2Julio Posted October 13, 2009 Share #166 Posted October 13, 2009 No need for tripod. I can hand hold it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted October 25, 2009 Share #167 Posted October 25, 2009 I feel this is the proper place to ask this question, anyone who can explain in detail please answer this one for me or link me to some info. As I'm still learning about my own DSLR, and the lens variety, I came across researching different types of lenses. The question is about the focal lengths of the camera and the lenses for 35mm cameras. I know the angle of view depends on the ratio between the focal length and the film size (which for me is 35mm), but let's say for example I want to get a 10-22mm wide-angle lens... How would I know what the actual range of focal lengths will be when I mount it on my camera? Would the result be different from 10-22mm? I feel kind of uneducated about this. Thanks in advance for explaining. :cool: 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted October 25, 2009 Share #168 Posted October 25, 2009 Your T1i has an APS-C sized sensor. These are also known as "crop sensor", "1.5x" or "DX" (Nikon specific term) sensors. As you can tell, they are smaller physically than a full-frame (or FX) sensor. An FX sensor is the same size as a frame of 35mm film. Since the sensor is smaller, it only "sees" a smaller part of the image circle projected by the lens. In Canon terms, EF-S lenses are designed to be used by only the cropped sensor bodies. They are physically unable to mount on full-frame bodies. Now as to your question regarding focal lengths: let's imagine a 50mm lens. No matter whether you mount it on your T1i or a 1Ds, the lens will always have a focal length that equals 50mm. What changes is the field of view between the two cameras. Compared to the 1Ds (a full-frame camera), your T1i will show a narrower field of view. This is because the smaller sensor of your camera only sees a smaller portion of the image projected by the lens. With the exception of medium format/large format systems (if you don't know what these are, don't worry, just keep reading), lens focal lengths are always expressed in terms of 35mm cameras. We'll take the Canon EF-S 10-22mm lens and for the purposes of explaining this, we'll imagine that a Canon EF 10-22mm lens also exists (the EF being designed for full-frame or 35mm cameras). If you kept the lenses set at 10mm, they would both show the same field of view on your T1i. This is because the actual focal length of the lens does not change, focal length depends on the arrangement of the glass elements inside the lens. I hope this clears up any confusion you might have, this very topic used to puzzle me when I first got interested in SLRs. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted October 25, 2009 Share #169 Posted October 25, 2009 OK, first off thanks for the response. I realize you have some experience in this topic. So far I understand everything you wrote out really clearly. So the "crop sensor" in my T1i is the factor determining the field of view in the picture. So when buying a lens with a given focal length for a 35mm camera, how would I calculate the "actual" focal length for the pictures if one has the "crop sensor"? By that I mean if my T1i currently has a 18-55mm lens, what is the corresponding range of focal lengths considering the smaller sensor? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted October 25, 2009 Share #170 Posted October 25, 2009 When using a lens on a crop sensor, you would multiply the focal length by 1.5 to obtain what the apparent focal length would be on full-frame. For example: a 50mm lens on a crop sensor "looks like" a 75mm lens on a full-frame body. A 35mm lens on a crop sensor "looks like" a 52.5mm lens on a full-frame body. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted October 25, 2009 Share #171 Posted October 25, 2009 So considering this factor, the "actual" focal length on my camera with the 18-55mm lens I have is 27-82.5mm? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted October 25, 2009 Share #172 Posted October 25, 2009 Nope. The actual focal length of your 18-55mm lens is 18-55mm. The apparent focal length is 27-82.5mm. Actual focal length does not change ever (unless you take your lens apart and remove pieces of glass from it heh heh). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted October 25, 2009 Share #173 Posted October 25, 2009 Well yes, apparent is more precise. That's why I attempted to put actual into quotation marks. Thanks for the explanation sir, much respect. At least now I know what to consider when looking for a wider variety of lenses. :tup: 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted October 25, 2009 Share #174 Posted October 25, 2009 Don't know what your shooting style is, but some of the fast f/1.8 & f/2 primes can be a lot of fun to use. They really force you to think about composition rather than turning a ring. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Concourse Posted October 25, 2009 Share #175 Posted October 25, 2009 I know this sounds like a dumb question and granted i never bothered to read the manuals, but how do you crop pics on a DSLR? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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