Joe Posted January 1, 2011 Share #601 Posted January 1, 2011 I shoot with both a D1X and a D200. The focus motor in the D1X has ungodly torque, it racks the focus from one end to another on any lens with considerable force. You're absolutely right about QC issues with Sigma. One of the main reasons why i'm very leery about buying from them...though their 30/1.4 intrigues me very much. On a photo forum I frequent there was a thread about the Sigma 50/1.4. A few fellas had to return a lens two or three times just to get a good copy. The 35/2 has a plastic body just like the 35/1.8. At least my later AF-D copy is (though I believe the original AF version was plastic as well). Nothing beats the old (n-)AI(-s) lenses though, all metal construction FTW. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbluefoxie Posted January 2, 2011 Share #602 Posted January 2, 2011 I shoot with both a D1X and a D200. The focus motor in the D1X has ungodly torque, it racks the focus from one end to another on any lens with considerable force.. Couldnt that damage the lens over time? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoSpectacular Posted January 2, 2011 Share #603 Posted January 2, 2011 Couldnt that damage the lens over time? I'm sure Nikon built their lenses strong enough at the time to withstand that. B) 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted January 2, 2011 Share #604 Posted January 2, 2011 Couldnt that damage the lens over time? Definitely not, these lenses are made to perform. :cool: 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
css9450 Posted January 2, 2011 Share #605 Posted January 2, 2011 Do you have the Nikkor 17-55/2.8 or one of the third-party versions? The Nikkor is impressive, I don't even like normal zooms and I think that's a damn-fine lens, hah. Yes, its the Nikkor. Heavy, built like a tank, and expensive, but its worth it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHV9218 Posted January 2, 2011 Share #606 Posted January 2, 2011 Please, watch the Nazi Banksters Crimes Ripple Effect at http://jforjustice.co.uk/banksters 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted January 2, 2011 Share #607 Posted January 2, 2011 I picked up the D1X last summer. Amazing how the prices of bodies deteriorate...when the D1X was new (circa 2001) it retailed for $8,000; I picked mine up for $300. Very nice body, though I wish it had interchangeable viewfinders like the F5 did. Ever since I bought a Katz Eye screen, i've been much more open to buying older non-AF lenses. In fact, this week i'm probably going to be looking at picking up a 400/3.5. Nice heavy, metal lens. Doubles as a club if someone ever tries to jack it from you! I wouldn't trust those plastic mounts at all either, the 18-55 kit lens (that came with my D50 when I still had it) was a plastic mount. As someone who habitually picks cameras up from the lens, I could see a heavy mofo like a D1X or a gripped D200 breaking the mount off. edit: just for kicks, some D1X awesomeness: 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R68 Subway Car Posted January 3, 2011 Share #608 Posted January 3, 2011 The Canon f/2 100mm Lens is a great lens and you can photograph in low light both indoors and outdoors. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbluefoxie Posted January 3, 2011 Share #609 Posted January 3, 2011 The Canon f/2 100mm Lens is a great lens and you can photograph in low light both indoors and outdoors. yea but isnt that a bit too much zoom for the subway stations? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoSpectacular Posted January 3, 2011 Share #610 Posted January 3, 2011 Yeah, especially with the T1i's 1.6x crop factor, that's gonna be a hefty 160mm... Waaaaaaaay too much zoom for indoors! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbluefoxie Posted January 3, 2011 Share #611 Posted January 3, 2011 Yeah, especially with the T1i's 1.6x crop factor, that's gonna be a hefty 160mm... Waaaaaaaay too much zoom for indoors! already my 50mm lens is acting like an 80mm one, 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoSpectacular Posted January 3, 2011 Share #612 Posted January 3, 2011 Yep, that's why I've been a bit hesitant about getting that 50mm lens 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
INDman Posted January 3, 2011 Share #613 Posted January 3, 2011 yea but isnt that a bit too much zoom for the subway stations? Way too much zoom. Sometimes I don't even like my 35mm lens, but I can get great shots with almost no light so I can really hate it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbluefoxie Posted January 3, 2011 Share #614 Posted January 3, 2011 Yep, that's why I've been a bit hesitant about getting that 50mm lens its like $94 so its not a budget buster, the 35mm f2 is around $300 so its more of a step to get it. theres a 28mm f2.8 thats around $200 but f2.8 may not be enough to get good underground shots. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoSpectacular Posted January 3, 2011 Share #615 Posted January 3, 2011 f/2.8 is more than acceptable for low light, f/3.5 does fine enough in a subway station with a slow shutter and 400-800 ISO, shutter speeds of 1/10-1/60 are possible depending on lighting conditions. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted January 3, 2011 Share #616 Posted January 3, 2011 FWIW, f/2 is a full stop faster than f/2.8 and therefore a whole doubling of the amount of light admitted to the sensor. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amtrak7 Posted January 3, 2011 Share #617 Posted January 3, 2011 For Canon lenses, is IS and/or USM a must? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoSpectacular Posted January 3, 2011 Share #618 Posted January 3, 2011 Image Stabilized lenses are a must if you're going to be using slower shutter speeds, ultrasonic motors are only for focusing, their upsides are quick and silent focusing but their downside is they also bring the cost of the lens up significantly 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbluefoxie Posted January 4, 2011 Share #619 Posted January 4, 2011 For Canon lenses, is IS and/or USM a must? image stabilisation is a handy feature, USM is not a huge deal, its just a quieter, slightly faster focusing system that allows you in some models to adjust the manual focus without having to take it out of autofocus mode. if the aperature is below f2.8 you wont need image stabilisation, since the faster aperatures allow you to take pictures in low light with quicker shutter speeds therefore reducing the risk of camera shake. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Posted January 4, 2011 Share #620 Posted January 4, 2011 Camera shake occurs at all shutter speeds. Whether or not it is optically evident in your photos is another question. For example, imagine a camera duct-taped to a vibrator (yes, i'm being serious here, you pervs.) You trip the shutter twice, one frame at 1/30 shutter speed and another at 1/8000 shutter speed. Camera shake in both shots was the same, regardless of the shutter speed (or even presence of IS), right? That said, IS is useful at all shutter speeds, in fact, Nikon sells a 200mm f/2 lens that has VR (Nikon calls it VR; Canon calls it IS). We shouldn't forget the famous 70-200mm f/2.8 VR. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoSpectacular Posted January 4, 2011 Share #621 Posted January 4, 2011 Of course, I tend to keep the IS off during the day time when I take pictures, all other times, it goes on 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbluefoxie Posted January 4, 2011 Share #622 Posted January 4, 2011 Camera shake occurs at all shutter speeds. Whether or not it is optically evident in your photos is another question. For example, imagine a camera duct-taped to a vibrator (yes, i'm being serious here, you pervs.) You trip the shutter twice, one frame at 1/30 shutter speed and another at 1/8000 shutter speed. Camera shake in both shots was the same, regardless of the shutter speed (or even presence of IS), right? That said, IS is useful at all shutter speeds, in fact, Nikon sells a 200mm f/2 lens that has VR (Nikon calls it VR; Canon calls it IS). We shouldn't forget the famous 70-200mm f/2.8 VR. what i meant was the camera shake ruining the photo 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel The Cool Posted January 7, 2011 Share #623 Posted January 7, 2011 Guys. I decided not to buy the lens but instead I've decided to go buy some accessories for my camera (Like a kit). But my concern is whats the best stuff to make it into a kit (No over than $150.00) 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pablo M 201 Posted January 7, 2011 Share #624 Posted January 7, 2011 Guys. I decided not to buy the lens but instead I've decided to go buy some accessories for my camera (Like a kit). But my concern is whats the best stuff to make it into a kit (No over than $150.00) A suggestion if I may add, is perhaps to try and go to camera stores, like J&R on Park Row, 17th Street Photo, Adorama, B&H, etc etc to name a few. Perhaps see what each store has to offer and maybe compare prices. And stores like those are glad to help you find what you're looking for. I usually do my camera and accessory shopping from J&R and most of the folks there are great, some know their stuff, and I usually find what I'm looking for. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R160 Posted January 7, 2011 Share #625 Posted January 7, 2011 Guys. I decided not to buy the lens but instead I've decided to go buy some accessories for my camera (Like a kit). But my concern is whats the best stuff to make it into a kit (No over than $150.00) Some things that I have which I find useful are: 1) A bag or carrying case. You can find smaller ones that fit the body and 2 lenses for around $30 2) Lens caps and Lens protectors. The lens protectors are used even when you take pics and they don't affect the shot. It keeps the lens from cracking or scratching. 3) Lens hood. This can block out any unwanted light to make you shot more crisp/clear. 4) Neck strap (if you don't have one already) 5) A picture only SD card and a video only SD card 6) A flash attachment 7) Tripod to keep your shots straight (Can't be used in subway unless you contact the MTA and get a permit [or something like that]) 8) A remote for remote control shooting. I tried it on models in the store and it was pretty cool. Obviously you're not going to find a kit that has all of this and you especially won't find a kit that has all of this for under $150. The cheapest flash clip-ons will run you over $150. You can find good lens protectors for under $15 (and maybe under $10). SD cards depend on how big you get them. You can also find cheap tripods for $25. Lens hoods depend on your lens and the design you want. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.